If I shut my eyes and let photographs of all the style exhibits I’ve seen in 2022 come to the floor, the one which stands out most vividly in my reminiscence is Valentino’s high fashion, staged on Rome’s Spanish Steps. It was an absolute coup the thêatre—and being Italian, I clearly love well-staged theatrics, with a facet of drama and glamour. Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered each in spades. What was outstanding was that he was capable of grasp the overwhelming great thing about the location, making a set so visually robust, so fantastically highly effective that the Spanish Steps turned simply a tremendous body, and never the focal point. Not a simple job. For me, this present was for the books.—Tiziana Cardini, Vogue Runway contributor
KidSuper, spring 2023 menswear
One of many hoariest debates in our enterprise—an argument that may probably by no means be resolved—is whether or not style ought to be thought-about a type of artwork. Personally, having lined each style and artwork, I believe the reply is sure. However that reply begs one other query—ought to artwork be thought-about a type of style? In spite of everything, artists transfer out and in of vogue. And we dangle and rehang artwork on our partitions in a way not so dissimilar to the best way we dangle and rehang garments on our our bodies. I cherished Colm Dillane’s first stay Paris present for his KidSuper model throughout menswear final June, as a result of it ingeniously addressed these questions in a manner by no means earlier than seen on the runway. By framing the style present as an artwork public sale, and concurrently presenting his garments with the artistic endeavors that included them, Dillane offered loads of hilarious meals for thought. It additionally made you think about why LVMH’s rumored curiosity in shopping for out Gagosian Gallery—a rumor LVMH has denied—won’t be so fanciful. Hopefully, the essence of a present whose finale was particularly wonderful was captured within the assessment, so wants no repeating right here. This was a intelligent reinvention of the runway format that left you fortunately speculating as to what Dillane would possibly provide you with subsequent.—Luke Leitch, Vogue Runway contributor
Renaissance Renaissance, spring 2023